Yama Tsuki: Outstanding Sushi Right off Greenwich Avenue
I subscribe to the idea that a piece of perfectly presented fish is one of life’s great pleasures. Silken bluefin belly with a sprinkle of caviar; soft salmon draped over a sliver of torched rice; a slice of supple baby yellowtail, delicate but insistently flavorful. At Yama Tsuki, on Greenwich’s West Putnam Avenue, you’ll find all three. Family-owned, the business operates this restaurant alongside a wholesale seafood business and several restaurants in Long Island and Baltimore, personally sourcing very high-grade fish on twice-yearly scouting trips to places like Japan, Indonesia, the Faroe Islands, and New Zealand.
That obsession with freshness was evident on a recent afternoon when I sat down to enjoy a selection of a la carte dishes as well as the omakase, which is served at the tables in the airy dining room and in the adjoining dedicated omakase room with its long blond counter. Four to five chefs, all of whom have worked at various sushi restaurants in Manhattan at one time or another, design their own omakase experiences, of either 12 or 15 courses: two appetizers, eight or 11 pieces of nigiri, one hand roll, and a seasonal dessert like swirled guava-mango gelato or a truffle concealing a gooey espresso center. My chopsticks danced through sumptuous wild king salmon from New Zealand, bluefin belly adorned with caviar and gold flakes, lustrous kinmedai (golden-eye snapper), delicate shima-aji jackfish, and pristine Japanese fluke. Each bite was well balanced, and frankly, a little addictive.
Before I finished, I couldn’t resist turning to the la carte three-piece Crispy Rice, a study in texture: creamy avocado holding up a gently crisp rectangle of rice, crowned with tender, melt-in-your-mouth salmon. It was truly delightful (so much so that I saved the third and final piece for my last bite of the meal), as was the Toro Toast, with its rainbow of rich tuna, truffle mushrooms, and sun-yellow crunchy Japanese oshiko or pickles.
The Out of Control special roll layered fish upon fish: yellowtail, tuna, salmon, topped with more (seared) yellowtail, salmon, and tuna, with a drizzle of sweet eel sauce. I also loved the savory chicken wrapped in long sheafs of lettuce. If you’re having the omakase or a mix of sushi and sashimi, the chicken and lettuce is a brilliant trick to keep your tastebuds on their toes.
The drinks menu, I discovered, should not be overlooked. It’s modest but curated in a no-fuss way, featuring 10 carefully selected sakes, each offering a unique flavor profile, alongside a lineup of just as many vibrant cocktails. For those who prefer something bubbly, there’s a nice rose from Nicolas Feuillatte and classic Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial.
At traditional Japanese omakase seatings, conversation isn’t the focus—you watch the chefs at work and savor each bite. At Yama Tsuki, the impeccable fish indeed speaks for itself. And while the delivery service is popular, there’s something about sitting at the counter that makes you want to come back. We know we will the next time we’re in Greenwich.
Yama Tsuki Omakase & Bar 18 W. Putnam Ave., Greenwich; 203-340-2588
From breaking news and local politics to art exhibitions, live music, high school sports, small businesses, and cultural events, we celebrate the people and places that make Connecticut unique.